the jacobs effect at louis vuitton

august 18, 2024de

before marc jacobs, louis vuitton was essentially a luggage and leather goods brand instantly recognizable for its monogram. no wonder that when the american designer was appointed creative director in 1997, he was told one thing: he could not touch the logo. during his 16-year tenure jacobs, an independent driving force and never one to follow rules without questioning them, set the blueprint for preserving a brand’s heritage while playing with its fundamental codes… including the logo.

from debuting louis vuitton’s first ever womenswear collection to launching menswear for the brand, marc jacobs redefined luxury and brought a sense of modernity to the fashion house. his collaborations with artists like stephen sprouse, takashi murakami and even rapper kanye west, to name a few, helped translating LV universe into a more urban, contemporary aesthetic. these collaborations between art and fashion became the norm within the industry.

and so did the shows, one of the most anticipated moments on the paris fashion week schedule. escalators, a water fountain, a hotel corridor, lifts, a carousel or even a full-sized train… there were no limits to jacobs’ imagination. there was always a surprise element, something to leave the audience in awe. Hhre are some of my favorite shows from the jacobs’ era at louis vuitton.

SPRING 2008
for spring 2008, marc jacobs collaborated with artist richard prince and nothing was kept to the ordinary. as the opening act, a group of 12 supermodels walked the runway wearing nurse caps, black monogrammed lace masks and organza coats. and what about the bags? definitely artsy. each bag was one of a kind and after all these years they remain one of the most sought-after items from jacobs’ era at louis vuitton.

louis vuitton | spring summer 2008 show

FALL 2011
if anything, louis vuitton’s fall 2011 woman was unapologetic sexy. as models exited four working elevators, the overall aesthetic was provocative, kinky, yet still very parisian-chic. there was plenty of leather, corsets, see-through pencil skirts and even dominatrix-style boots and many reinterpretations of the 1958 top-handle lock it bag.

louis vuitton | fall winter 2011/2012 show

SPRING 2012
it’s hard to describe louis vuitton’s spring 2012 collection as anything other than feminine and charming. at the center of the stage there was this massive carousel with 48 (yes, FOURTY-EIGHT) horses where models sat waiting until it was their time to walk the runway. the collection was not only an ode to femininity with a palette of candy-cotton colors but also showcased incredible technique and execution.

louis vuitton | spring/summer 2012 show

FALL 2012
leave it to marc jacobs to create a show. fall 2012 was a voyage into louis vuitton’s history and iconography. the show took place on a custom-built venue at louvre museum and featured a full-sized steam train. but the genius part was the fact that models had uniform-clad porters to carry their “luggage”, everything from louis vuitton’s famous trunks to fur-covered satchels.

louis vuitton | fall winter 2012/2013 show

SPRING 2013

perhaps one of the most iconic shows under marc jacobs reign with four larger-than-life escalators serving as the start of the runway. for spring 2013, the american designer payed homage to “damier”, a louis vuitton signature print that you can still see in some of its most iconic bags. the models walked the runway in pairs, in silhouettes reminiscing the 60s.

louis vuitton | spring summer 2013 show

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